UPDATE: I have just included details for mounting the optional hydraulic rams to the rotisserie.

What you are buying is 37 pages of easy to follow blueprints that are based on common sense and not engineering jargon. There is more than enough information on the drawings to successfully build a complete auto rotisserie, including some options that you may or may not want to build.

The capacity drawn is for 3000 lbs. using 3/16″ thick tubing. If you have the skills to restore a car, you have more than enough skill to build this rotisserie. Every part is clearly drawn and dimensioned in 4 views including a pictorial view for clarity. The blueprints also come with building notes and a full material and cut list.

There are many different types of auto rotisseries out there but, have you seen how much they cost to buy? Why buy one when you can build your own for a fraction of the cost? Put the extra money you save into your restoration project. The expected cost for this project will vary by where you live and the going rate for steel. A good estimate would be between $300 – $400.

For $12.95 you can instantly download the auto rotisserie plans to your computer. There is also an option to purchase the body lift and roller plans as well for a total of $17.95 for both sets. Did I mention you will also get a set of utility trailer plans for free? Click here for details.

The plans will be in a PDF file so they can easily be printed out. After payment is made you will automatically be able to access the file from a link sent to you in an automatic email. You can pay by credit card through PAY PAL or if you wish, you can send a check or money order. If you have any questions you can shoot me an email.

Auto rotisserie plans info. is a post from: Red Wing Steel Works Auto Rotisserie & Trailer Plans

I have built and used many different auto rotisseries. The exact replica of this one is among the best and cheapest to make. This is a “no frills” rotisserie, after all the trial and error building different features these seem to be the best.

The rotisserie is made up of 7 different main parts and many different pieces to make up the main parts. The main part names are as follows: End frame, Hanger bracket, Pivot point, Pivot arm, Mounting arms, Body mount bracket, And Body mount. I have made drawings of all the individual parts as well as the main parts.

All .75” nuts should be welded on at least 3 sides and that is if you are a good welder, if not they should be welded all the way around. It has been my experience that using smaller nuts not only dents the tube you are pressing against but over many uses of the rotisserie the nuts can become stripped out. Not to mention more warping during welding making them hard to use.

Many of the parts are designed with ease and usability in mind. For instance The body mounts and body mount brackets are optional. If you don’t think you need them for easy hook up for your car then don’t build them. Just drill the hole in the end of the mounting arms that I call out in the part drawings. The caster plates are obviously optional and only needed if you want to be able to move the rotisserie around. The caster plates are a for a standard 6” caster. If you are going to use a different size I would recommend getting the caster first and making the plates to fit your casters.

The gusset plates are more for added welding surface than they are for structural integrity (except for the pivot point gusset plate, it is for both reasons). If you want to make the gusset plates bigger that is fine, but I wouldn’t make them any smaller.

The space between the hanger bracket and the end frame is enough in case you wish to add a hydraulic jack to raise and lower the pivot point up and down the end frame vertical tube. I didn’t draw this option because there are so many different sizes and styles of hydraulic jacks out there I would never be able to guess which one you would be using. I never felt that a hydraulic jack was necessary unless you have ceiling clearance problems in your garage.

The .188” thickness is a standard tube size that not only makes the rotisserie heavy duty but also makes all the tubes slide inside one another quite nicely. I wouldn’t use lighter tube because of strength reasons as well as the amount of slop in between mating parts.

You will notice in the prints that I call out some weird hole sizes. I drill all my holes 1/32” bigger than the bolt I use to make life easier down the road. There is nothing wrong with making the holes exact size or 1/16” bigger. It all depends on what drill bits you already have. If I call for a .813” hole and you only have a 3/4” bit by all means use it instead of going out and buying a new bit. If you have a 7/8” bit, use it, you get the idea. If I call for a through hole that means all the way through the other side of the tube.

You will notice on some of the 4 view drawings that some of the views are out of proportion  with the others. This is for clarity and to give you the biggest view possible for standard paper from your printer. Please note that drawings are not to scale, so don’t measure off the drawings. there is enough information on each part to build each part. If you have any problems figuring something out, just look at another print that has that part on it or a picture view. This rotisserie was drawn with common sense in mind, it is not rocket science. If there is something really important I made a note of it on the drawing or building notes page, otherwise it is no big deal.

Auto rotisserie plans building notes. is a post from: Red Wing Steel Works Auto Rotisserie & Trailer Plans